Tana Toraja Trip (eng)

Hi, this time I will share my 4-day trip to Toraja (23-26 June 2019). The journey from Jakarta to Toraja begins by plane to Makassar. And from Makassar followed by bus to Toraja. Usually the bus leaves at 9 pm and the trip takes around 8 hours. Among several bus agents, I chose Primadona bus, because this bus ticket can be purchased online. The Primadona  bus office is also very close to the airport, only 6 km away.

Makassar airport, Sultan Hasanuddin

The next morning I arrived in the city of Rantepao, and my journey began from morning. First of all, I will explain about Toraja.

Tana Toraja

Toraja is located in South Sulawesi with its inhabitants adhering to Christianity. In the past the Toraja people still adheres to animist and dynamism beliefs that worshiped animal and things. About 100 years ago a priest from the Netherlands came and introduce Christianity, since then the Toraja people embraced Christianity.

Toraja traditional house

One of the distinctive features of Toraja is their traditional house that form a stage called Tongkonan. There are two types of Tongkonan. The bigger one is for inhabitants while the smaller one is for storing rice. To build one Tongkonan, it costs 500 million and there are provisions in Tongkonan size so that in Toraja all Tongkonan look the same.

At the front of Tongkonan you will find buffalo horn that is hung in the main pillar of the house. The number of the horns shows the high and low social status of the host, the more horns the higher the level. 

On the left side, there is a stairs lead to the entrance. 

While Tongkonan for rice barns, the entrance is at the front. The buffalo head is the entrance.

Offering Animals

In Toraja, the highest offering is buffalo (Tedong). Black buffalo usually reaches the price of 20-40 million or more, depends on the shape, color and length of the horn. The highest level of buffalo is Tedong Saleko which is white with black pattern and yellowish horn buffalo. One Tedong Saleko can be valued hundreds of million depends on the pattern. And it's children can reach a price of 250 million. Beside buffaloes, other animals that are made offerings are pig, deer and anoa.

 This Tedong is 600 million. Very cute eh? Albino buffalo.

Death Ceremony (Rambu Solo)

The most interesting thing in Toraja is the ritual of the death (Rambu Solo). For Toraja people birth is not important but death. When a family member dies, the Toraja will hold a death party by slaughtering buffalo. The number of buffaloes offered is depend on the social status level of the deceased family, and special buffaloes such as Tedong Saleko are only used as offerings for certain groups such as the nobility (Puang).

People who die in Toraja are usually not immediately buried because of the preparation for Rambu Solo requires a large amount of money. Usually, it can be months or even years to prepare it. Before Rambu Solo was held, people who died were still considered alive and their bodies were stored in the house. To prevent decay, the corpse is preserved with spices, but this method is not used anymore, formalin is used to preserve the corpse now. One body needs 4 liters of formalin.

At the beginning of the ceremony, the gong is beaten 

and the woman will start hitting the mortar. 

 

The coffin was removed from the house and placed under Tongkonan during the Rambu Solo. After that, buffalo is slaughtered in the middle of the field and the meat will be shared to close relatives, the rest will be cooked and eaten with guests during celebration, family member and all quests must be dressed in black. So if you want to join this celebration, you should dress in black.

Toraja tomb

After Rambu Solo, the coffin will be placed at the tomb. Each tomb has its own uniqueness in storing coffins. Some are placed in a cave or rock, hung next to a rock, or store it in a house.

In front of the tomb, there are statues as a representatives for the deceased. 

And only the deceased elders can make these statues. 

Tourist attraction

Tourist areas in Toraja are divided into south and north, the first day usually will be offered to explored the south. The next day will be north. 

1. Pong Buri shop

Beside Rantepao, other places are rather to find food. This shop is located in the city of Rantepao near Primadona bus stop. Here you can enjoy special Toraja food, Pa'piong, made from pig lard and skin and sour vegetable wrapped in leaves. The price of a serving is IDR 35,000. Beside Pa'Piong, there are also pork soy sauce, eel soy sauce and chicken curry. Each portion are IDR 25,000. Pong Buri is always crowded with local people everyday, if you want to try the food here is better before 2 pm, after 2 o’clock, the food at Pong Buri usually already finished.

2. Kete kesu

Kete kesu is one of the traditional village, at the front Tongkonan is lined up and at the back there is a tomb of nobles in Toraja.

 In the past, people hung coffins on the rock to avoid animals 

because the place was surrounded by forest. 

Now Toraja people build a house to store coffins, one house can be used by 

one large family. If it’s not enough, another house will be built. 

3. Kalimbuang Bori

This is one of the most prestigious place to hold Rambu Solo, only the descendants of noblility (Puang) may hold Rambu Solo there and buffaloes which are offered at least 24 Tedong Saleko. 

In the middle part of Kalimbuang Bori, there are megalithis stones, the stones are one of the conditions for the host to hold Rambu Solo there, the stone is carved and placed in megalithic field.

Among the stones, there is a hut that is used to distribute buffalo meat 

after slaughtering the buffaloes.

After the celebration is over, pig’s jaw and buffalo’s head will be hung on the hut.

4. Batutumonga

At the back of Kalimbuang Bori there is a tomb. In here, the coffins are stored inside the rock. One rock is used for one family.

They make a hole in the rock to store coffin. One hole only for one coffin.

5. Baby Grave.

This tomb is located right behind Batutumonga. In the past there was a time when all babies in Toraja were born prematurely, so the elder gathered and decided that babies who died and had not yet developed teeth would be buried in trees. They hope the baby will reincarnate and grow stronger like a tree. Now this grave is no longer used and babies who die before teething will be buried in the ground.

6. Londa

This is also a tomb for nobles but the coffins were placed in the cave, including personal belongings of the deceased. 

During my visit, I was accompanied by a guide who told me the history 

and can help me to take pictures.

7. Buntu Burake

On the way up to the hill, you will pass through a snake-like twisting track which surrounded by limestone. The view is remarkable, too bad I didn’t take a pic. On the hill there is a statue of Jesus Christ with a height of 40 m (the statue is 27 m, the lower part is 13 m).  From the top of the hill can be seen the view of Toraja.

The carving of Jesus journey when crucified. 

8. Lolai, the village above the clouds

It is a hill in the north of Toraja. The trip to Lolai from Rantepao wass less than an hour. In here you can see the city of Rantepao and Sangala which are covered in clouds. The right time to visit this place is at dawn before sunrise.

9. Bolu market

This traditional market only operates on Tuesday and Saturday. Like other markets, Bolu market also sells vegetables and daily food. 

In this market can also be found tobacco leaves, soybean powder, white drink (traditional alcohol drink) and Toraja coffee which is very well known.

The most interesting part of this market is animal market located on the back. 

Animal sold are usually buffaloes and pigs.

This is how they carry a pig.

While the price of buffalo varies greatly from tens to hundreds of millions 

depends on the type.

This buffalo is 200 million.

10. Sa’dan weaving village

For lovers of scarves, batik cloth, woven fabrics, belt, blankets with ethnic motifs, you should visit this place. Original woven cloth of Toraja are made from cotton and natural dyes. Whereas Toraja batik is stamped batik, but the motif has a very deep meaning.

Grandma Panggau whose age already more than 100 years. 

She is making yarn by twisting the cotton.

Cotton is dried under the sun.

During my trip in Toraja, I met extraordinary people, Mr. Indra and my guide Mr.Martinus (+62821 4949 0708) and Mr. Joni who introduced the history and culture of Toraja. By learning Toraja culture, I become more appreciate every place that I visit.

Toraja trip is cultural tourism, from my own experience, It’s better to use a guide (one day guide and car for local tourist IDR 450,000, foreigner tourist IDR 600,000). It might be a little expensive but beside Londa, others tourist attraction do not provide guides and without a guide all places look the same, each place become interesting because of the history behind it. Not to mention most of the tourist attractions are tombs and they all are very mystical. And the most important is Rambu Solo ceremony which is actually only for families and guests. If you want to see it, it’s better to be accompanied by a guide, there are number of rules that are only known by local community.

That’s the end of my trip. If you have any comments or anything you want to ask, please leave the comments, see you in my next trip. thank you.